Saturday, February 27, 2010

2/3


Countries Visited: still 6, but that is to change as of this afternoon

Total Louvre Visits: You guys...you would be so proud of me. I've gone to the Louvre like six more times this month. Yes, about four of those were mandatory for my art history class. But still. I'm pretty much a VIP there.

Best Example of Absolute Denial
:

One of these days I'll get around to writing about classes and when I do, you will hear stories of my hilarious art history professor, who likes to insert random English phrases into conversation. Particular favorites are "Shut up!" "Don't speak English!" and a great Pepe Le Pew impression. Whenever "l'amour" is the subject of a painting, he will break into a speech of "My little sweet, my little darling. Let me kiss your hand." This is especially funny, because most French people do not know who Pepe Le Pew is. And even if they do, the full effect is lost on them. Because, you see, in France, Pepe Le Pew is Italian. Yes, the French, undoubtedly enraged at our decision to characterize them as amorous skunks, have decided to pretend that we really meant to insult their neighbors to the south-east.

Basically, Italians are to the French what the French are to Americans. They drink strong coffee, appreciate good food and wine, are fashionable and enjoy (as one of my friend's host mothers put it) "sport in bed."So why shouldn't Pepe be Italian?

Most Common Dinner Subject:

I don't know if you know this, but Americans are fat. Like really, hugely fat. When we go to the beach, whales swim away in fear. At least, this is what people continue to tell me. The subject of fat Americans is brought up weekly by my host family, who are fascinated by the eating habits of my compatriots. Kathleen, a new American girl arrived to live with my host family about a month ago, and we are both subjected to questioning about our food consumption. A sample conversation is below:

HS (Host Sister): Kathleen, you never eat very much.
Kathleen: Well, at home my mother is always on a diet. So I'm used to small portions.
HM (Host Mom): Oh.....what are the portions like at your house Alanna?

I tried to answer her, but as I don't know the French word for trough, the conversation didn't get very far.

Worst (Best?) Restaurant Chain: Indiana...the Tex-Mex restaurant

Friday, February 19, 2010

La Baguette



Before I came to France, bread was just the means to an end, a vehicle to transport other, more delicious foodstuffs into my mouth. But in the past six months I have learned to appreciate the joys of a plain piece of bread.

And there's no shortage of it in Paris. The city has pain of every variety, but the ultimate symbol of French culture is undoubtedly la baguette. These delicious carbohydrate sticks can be seen in the window of every boulangerie and, yes, French people really do buy one or two every day for dinner.

My love affair with baguettes began when I checked my bank balance and realized that my pastry habit was hurting more than just my BMI. Since then I've been substituting 0.85€ baguettes for 3€ sandwiches. Most people in the U.S. associate French bread with the traditional plain baguette, but they come in different varieties. My favorite is the baguette aux graines from the boulangerie near my program center. It's crusty on the outside, but soft on the inside, and studded with grains and seeds that give it just the right crunch. I order one almost every day (warm, if I time it right) and tote it off to eat it on my program's rooftop terrace.

Consuming a baguette is a blood sport (you think I'm kidding, but I needed a Band-Aid after an encounter with a particularly crusty speciman next week). The first option is to gnaw off giant hunks like some sort of ravenous animal, leaving nothing but a cloud of crumbs and dust. This method is best employed when you are alone, although it will get you lots of entertaining looks on the Metro. The second method is a more civilized dissection process, which involves finding and pulling apart the softer veins of bread amidst the crusty ridges. And if you want to be really French, adopt method #3 and eat your baguette with a knife and fork (no, I've never seen anyone do this. But considering they eat their hamburgers with silverware, it's not that far-fetched.)

Whatever your method of choice, popping into a Parisian boulangerie is a must for anyone who wants to understand a little more about French daily life. After all, happiness is a warm baguette.

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Mythbusters: French Edition



Stereotypes are bad, boys and girls. They reduce entire groups of people to simplistic and often inaccurate generalizations. And yet...stereotypes are sometimes true. At least, that's the conclusion I've come to after spending five months in France. (Disclaimer: Not all of these stereotypes are negative. And sometimes it's stereotypes about Americans that have been proven true. A lot of us are obnoxiously loud.) It's not like every French person walks around in berets belting out "La Marseillaise," but they have confirmed some of my preconceived notions about them. Here's an examination of five common stereotypes about the French, and my take on their veracity:

1) Scarves are a mandatory fashion accessory.


When I was younger, there was an anthology of scary stories that my parents dragged out every Halloween. One of these stories told of a young man named Alfred who fell in love with a girl named Jenny. Jenny had the whimsical habit of wearing a green ribbon around her neck, a ribbon which she instructed Alfred never to untie. The two eventually got married, had children, and lived a long and happy life together, during which Jenny never undid the ribbon. Finally, as an elderly Jenny lay on her deathbed, she told Alfred to untie the ribbon. He did so, and the last sentence of the story reads: "And Jenny's head fell off."

I am now convinced that this story--besides being severely traumatic--was written by a French person. Because in Paris scarves are not just fashion accessories; they might as well be surgically fused to the wearer's neck. The type and color are immaterial, as is the fashion of tying them. What is important is that Parisian men, women and children never leave the house without a protective piece of fabric wrapped around their necks.


2) They love black.

Paris is a city that lends itself to descriptions such as "classic," "elegant" and "timeless." And they have the color palette to match. Parisians do wear color, but generally as an accent to a black, gray or beige ensemble.

Parisians in general are very fashionable people and I accepted long before my arrival here that I would never fit in style-wise. So I refused to make any concessions when it came to de-colorizing my wardrobe. I walk the streets every day dressed in a green jacket and bright blue or yellow scarves, carrying a green purse. If I want to be kind to the people on the Metro, I wear my black shoes. If I want to give someone an aneurysm, it's either leopard-print or blue snakeskin flats.

These choices often cause French people to stare at me and say things like: "What ees wrong with you, you walking kaleidoscope? Are you color-blind? Deed a shamrock throw up on you zees morning?" But I will not be deterred. I agree that black is classic, timeless and slimming (important in a city with so many pastries). But why restrict yourself to one shade when there are so many other colors to be worn? Sorry France. You are classy, but I'm not assimilating on this one.

3) They are fueled by a powerful combination of bread, coffee, cheese and wine.

One of my favorite things about Paris is that, despite being a big city, it is full of independent businesses and people who love to patronize them. Sure, there's a McDonald's, Subway and (inexplicably) KFC within one block of my apartment. And the local Monoprix is always packed. But there are also at least three boulangeries, a butcher shop and countless cafes within the same area.

I honestly do not understand how there are enough Parisians to fill all of the 52 million cafes in the city, but they're always full. And every evening at about 6:00, there is a line of people out the door of every boulangerie, all waiting to buy their evening baguettes. My host family eats a cheese course every night at dinner. And wine is incredibly cheap; you can get a decent bottle for under 2 euros (not that I would know anything about that, Mom and Dad).

I think this adherence to certain food staples, just like a devotion to black, reflects some central tendency of the French. At some point 800 years ago, they found the foods, colors and architecture that work for them, and they've spent the rest of their history perfecting them. So while they are not quite the cultural melting pot that the U.S. is, no one can beat them when it comes to a perfectly browned baguette, or a wheel of camembert.

4) They all smoke.


This is largely true. Of course there are exceptions (my host mother doesn't, and my 13-year-old host sister has, thus far, resisted temptation), but I've met many more smokers here than in the U.S. Walking past any Parisian high school at lunch hour involves navigating through the clouds of smoke produced by French 14-year-olds.

It's not that Parisians don't understand the consequences of smoking. Au contraire. Packets of cigarettes are labeled with bold, black proclamations of "Fumer tue" (smoking kills). And smoking is not allowed in restaurants and other public places. And yet, I would give most of my professors about three seconds after the end of class before they are outside on our center's terrace, lighting up a cigarette.

5) They are rude, Communist, cheese-eating surrender monkeys.

Absolutely true.

No, actually I think that the French get an unfair rap from the rest of the world. It's true that many people here are not overtly friendly. But I attribute this to reservedness, not rudeness. Privacy is highly valued here, and there is not the same sense of general cheeriness that pervades American society. And it is worth remembering that Paris is not France (in fact, even many French people hate Parisians). Paris is a big city and just like any big city, the people are stressed out, busy and not in the mood to smile on the Metro.

I have had a few encounters with brusque or unfriendly people. But many more of my experiences have been positive. And I haven't seen much evidence of anti-American sentiment. When people find out I'm American, they are often very interested in talking to me about our health care system and political process. They ask my opinion of Paris and Parisians. They compliment my French, and thank me for coming to study in their country. A friend and I were once even called "adorables americaines," two words many would be surprised to hear spoken by a French person.

I realize that my experience has probably been made considerably easier by the fact that I speak French. And I don't discount stories of rudeness or snobbery experienced by past tourists. But the French are pretty much like any other group of people: some are friendly, some are jerks and most are a little bit of both.

They do eat a lot of cheese, though.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

La Carte de Sejour



I know what you're thinking. If Paris is such a magical place, full of lights and pastries, why doesn't everyone just move there? Unfortunately, the French have anticipated this and taken the necessary precautions.

If you are staying in France for longer than three months (most study abroad programs are 3 1/2...coincidence?), you need to register with the immigration office upon arrival in Paris. One of the nice things about being on a study abroad program is that they tell you what paperwork to bring and then submit it for you. We handed in said paperwork during our orientation in Tours, and were assured that the immigration office would have our cards ready within two months, and that we were not technically allowed to travel outside of France before then.

I'm glad I did not obey said technicality, because five months later, our program director informed me that I was scheduled to go in for the last step in the visa process, the mandatory medical exam. Of course, after six weeks of free time, this appointment fell on the first day at my new internship. When I informed her of this problem, she suggested I take a late lunch break, as "Once you get there, they're very efficient. It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes." Foolishly, I believed her. After five months spent in this wondrously inefficient country, I believed her.

And so, I arrived at the office on Monday afternoon at precisely 2:00, only to find that the X-ray machine was broken, and things were running about 40 minutes behind. First, they collected several of my documents, as well as a stamp I had purchased prior to the appointment for 55 euros. This stamp had nothing to distinguish it from regular postage, which was highly disappointing. Because if I'm going to buy a 75 DOLLAR STAMP, it had better be made of solid gold and Berthillon ice cream.

I finally got into an exam room for an eye test, followed by more waiting. Then I was called into another room, where I was informed that I needed a chest X-ray. Since X-rays cannot see through clothes, or hospital gowns, and since nudity is second only to Camembert in French hearts, I was informed that I would need to take my top off for the doctors. Being a prudish American, I yelled something like, "What do you think will happen to your economy if I leave? DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY MACARONS I BOUGHT LAST WEEK??" Surprisingly, they remained unswayed by my pleas. So I was forced to expose myself. On the plus side, I know that I do not have tuberculosis. Because that was really keeping me up at night.

After that, it was back to the waiting room, then in to a third office. Here I was asked to provide my vaccination records, which, I might add, were not listed on any checklists I had received. I had brought along three other "required" documents which the office had specifically requested. But no, no one even wanted to look at those. They wanted my vaccination records, and it was only after I conveniently forgot how to speak French that they took pity on my confused, pathetic American self and signed off on my form anyway. Finally, it was back to the waiting room, where I was given a parting gift of a French-English healthcare handbook which told me not to drink more than two glasses of wine a day, to beware of pastries and to never leave my child in a room with an open window (whoops on all three counts).

So, to sum up, my morning consisted of:
-1 $75 dollar stamp
-3 doctors
-90 minutes in delays
and
-1 striptease

Why don't more people move to France?